Le Printemps des Champagnes (part 1)
First two days of Champagne Week: seven exhibitions different for areas, vine varieties, viticultural and oenological practices.
The most interesting one seemed to be Bulles Bio, organized by ACB (Association des Champagnes Biologique). Born in 1998, today it has 68 members and aims to respect and safeguard Champagne terroir’s diversity. Bulles Bio includes a number of vignerons that is constantly increasing. This year we counted 41, seven more than the past year.
Among the new ones, we really liked Eric Collinet, from Côte des Bar, who created his first certified cuvée, Temporis, almost exclusively with Pinot Noir and it has a nice intensity. From Aube we also met Etienne Sandrin and his vin clairs made with the parcel method, especially the Mouille Brant, strong and mineral. We had the pleasure to meet again Durdon-Bouval (we talked about him last year): we really liked the two Chardonnay produced in Vincelles, especially the Nature-Zéro Dosage. Soon we’ll examine in depth these Maisons.
Regarding the new cuvées, we were amazed by Leclerc-Briant’s Abyss 2012. After the dégorgement in February 2016, it was dropped in the Ocean at a depth of 60 meters; in May 2017 they took it back. This Champagne, made of equal parts of the three main vine varieties, expands in fruity notes, both fresh and dried fruit, sea tones and a pleasant oxidation.
Quite impressive was also the first vintage made by Eliane Delalot, the 2013. She is also ready to release a new pinot meunier next year that seems to already have an exciting character.
On the other hand, Marguet’s Sapience 2009 has finally shown his nobility.
Among all, the ones who really blew us away were Vouette & Sorbée and Ruppert-Leroy, who presented the last vintages of their bottles which reached a very high-level. Fidèle 2015 and Les Cogneaux, of the same year, will give you something to talk about.
Today we’ll meet Vincent Laval, David Leclapart, Pascal Doquet at the Terres et Vins exhibition.
Among the cuvées sampled at Les Mains du Terroir, which includes 17 vignerons whose aim is to safeguard the terroir, we really liked the extremely high-level of De Sousa’s bottles, especially the two Cuvée des Caudalies, vintage 2012: Les Chétillons di Mesnil, which still needs to absorb the wood to be perfect, and Les Pierres Vaudors from Avize which appears already complete with its mix of buttery and bakery notes, floral tones and a strong minerality.
Coessens’ wines were also very good. We’re in Aube and the bottles are entirely made of Pinot Noir: we were particularly fascinated by Argilliere Brut Nature because of its nice mixture of fruity and mineral notes.
Marie Copinet attended both Les Mains du Terroir and Secraie – Vignerons du Sézannais. With her wines she highlights an area that is usually less contemplated: we much appreciated the cuvées Epreuve d’Artist made with the parcel method. The ones with 100% Chardonnay, Les Charrons and Le Cocarde, show a mineral tension and a pleasant saltiness at the end.
Among the cuvées tasted at the Meunier Institut stand we recommend the champagne realized with the solera method by Demière of Fleury-la-Rivière; at Champagne, Terrois, etc, we really enjoyed Bergeronneau-Marion’s Clos 2009, which combines structure and taste tension; finally, at Champagne For You, we loved Gratiot’s Secret d’Almanach from Charly-sur-Marne, because of the jus des raisin’s dosage (2g/l), pinot meunier in this case.